Lyndhurst to Gananoque kayak camping

Day 1

Lyndhurst to Camp Roy

Lyndhurst-Camp Roy
21 km

Today August 14, I am finally getting around to enacting a short camping trip I first envisioned back in 2013 which is when a friend and I first ventured down the Gananoque River.   At one time this waterway would have allowed almost uninterrupted canoe travel between Morton on the Rideau and Gananoque on the St. Lawrence river and would have been a convenient canoe route for our First Nations people but now one has to contend with a number of dams.  In 2013 my friend and I paddled from Lyndhurst to the first of these dams at Marble Rock a distance of 30 km, at which point we walked the portage and took out.    On that paddle I was scouting the river for possible campsites so that on a future occasion I might return and do an overnight camp and complete the 40 plus kilometres to Gananoque.   I did find a suitable camp and that is our destination today.  Earl, my paddling companion today meets at my home where his gear gets transferred to my vehicle and once again my wife gets pressed into taxi driver service to ferry us to the put-in at Lyndhurst.

Lyndhurst put-in

The day is hot and humid, overcast and threatening rain which before long materialises in the form of off and on drizzle.  Starting across Lyndhurst lake we enter Lyndhurst creek which after a couple of kilometres will change to Singleton lake.  This area is very pretty in the fall of the year.

Lyndhurst Creek

Singleton Lake

Following the NE shore we are soon back in the creek for about a kilometre before turning into the longish SW arm of Redhorse lake which we follow until it opens out into the main body of the lake and here we will stop for lunch at Squaw island which I know has a picnic table and would also make a nice campsite but we have only travelled a bit over 9 km and we need to get half way before camping.

Squaw island

Lunch stop on Squaw Is.

We get through lunch without rain and the sun tries to shine off and on so not too bad a day so far.  Lunch over we round the bend and almost reverse our course from NE to SSW as we paddle down Redhorse towards Black Rapids.  At Black Rapids there is a bridge for County road 3 to paddle under and then about another 3 km to start of Gananoque Lake.

Black Rapids

Co road 3 bridge

This is a pleasant area to paddle, boat traffic is almost non-existent and cottages few with scenery that varies from rugged to marshy wetlands and some of it protected under the Frontenac Arch Biosphere.   Plenty of Osprey, Kingfishers, Great Blue Herons and a few Green Herons are to be seen along the way.

Lower Redhorse Lake

Around 3:30 we arrive at our camp which I have named Camp Roy as there is a commemorative plaque on a rock honoring one Roy Griffin (?) I think; so I say thanks to Roy for this legacy which we now enjoy.

Camp Roy

My tent

Campsite

Yours truly!

After we get set up the rain finally tapers off and we enjoy dinner and a peaceful evening which ended with a bit of a sunset so tomorrow may be better.

Sunset from Camp Roy

Day 2

Camp Roy to Marble Rock

Camp Roy to Marble Rock
10 km

Our second day and the weather is nicer in that the sun is shining and no sign of rain although with the heavy humidity we can expect a thunderstorm before the day is over.   I break camp and pack before breakfast just in case, then after a leisurely breakfast we are setting off around 10 a.m.   We have around 10 km to travel before reaching the portage at Marble Rock, so likely lunch time.   We noticed that there is another campsite about 100m across this little bay and we paddle over for a look before leaving.   It is a lot less roomy and landing the yaks would be more chalenging but if you were stuck it could do.  So the upper reaches of Gananoque lake stretch ahead.

Gananoque Lake

There is a small cottage community in the NE corner called Sand Bay and a lodge at the bottom SW where it narrows to a river again.   A little way down this river the habitat changes to marshy wetlands and Wiltse creek which connects to Charleston Lake, joins the river on the east side although this is not easily discerned due to the extensive weeds.  

Marshy wetlands

Beyond the wetlands the river gradually narrows as we approach the dam at Marble Rock where we will portage 215m and stop for lunch and likely a much needed rest!  A family of Mute swans paddle off out of harms way.

Mute swans

photo credit "Earl"

Before doing the portage we paddle round and take a quick look at the dam, but now for the hard part, beach and unload the gear then haul everything up a slope (I brought a set of wheels); luckily some kind soul has done some bush-whacking and the trail is much easier to traverse than it was about a month ago when I checked it out.  Earl eschews the wheels (his yak is kevlar) and opts to shoulder his out.

Take-out for portage

Portage

The take-out looks daunting from the water but the trail goes around the right side of the rock pile at a more gradual slope.

Earl's gear photo by Earl

"Almost there"  photo by Earl

At the end of the trail there is a short carry down to the gravel beach where we load up then get the chairs out for a rest and some lunch before continuing our paddle to Gananoque.

End of the trail

Ready to roll

Day 2

Marble Rock to Gananoque

Marble Rock to Gananoque
11 km

The river meanders along and is a bit weedy this time of year, very peaceful with an occasional cottage or farm.  A gaggle of domestic geese seem to find us of particular interest (not much happens in these parts!).   Humidity is high and some ominous looking clouds forming and occasional thunder but hopefully we can get finished before it breaks.

Domestic geese

Nothing much until the hamlet of Maple Grove where you pass under the  road bridge for county rd 32 and a short way after that it is Via Rail which runs Brockville to Kingston.

Co rd 32

Before long we can hear the traffic on hwy 401 but also thunder with increasing frequency spurring us on, hoping we can get off the water before the rain starts.  My plan was to take out at a spot just north of the Kinsman daycare off Stone St. but just as we reach it the rain is starting and the wind is picking up.

planned take-out

So I suggest we try the canoe club where they have docks and ask them if we can unload there.  It is about 400m ahead and just 300m short of the dam which is as far as you can go on the river.   It pours rain, wind, thunder and lightning as we scramble to get gear off and under a tree.  The kids have all run for cover but we get the okay from one of their minders, we are wet but happy that it waited until we were done as it could have been problematic if it had come when we were making or breaking camp or worse during the portage.

Canoe club docks credit Earl

Then I have to walk a block north to meet my wife who will be at the Kinsman take-out by now awaiting our arrival, then it is load up and head for home.

Happy paddling!

KayakJock